And unfortunately, in the past six to nine months, that's regressed."įor Boujarwah, so much of that comes down to the content we're all consuming. "In the previous five years, we moved to a healthier dialogue around women's bodies. Now, we're seeing the reverse," says Nadia Boujarwah, cofounder and CEO of Dia & Co., a platform that since its inception in 2015 specializes in styling and providing plus-size clothing (in sizes 10 to 32) from a stable of brands that range from Girlfriend Collective to Carolina Herrera. "The reality is that fashion, like other industries in the arts, is a reflection of social discourse - when social discourse became more inclusive, fashion became more inclusive. Getty | Piero Biasion Victor VIRGILE Daniele Venturelli Peter White and Photo Illustration: Aly Lim After so much progress on body inclusivity, it feels like the industry is backsliding. It dipped in the following seasons due to pandemic-related concerns (virtual runways, canceled shows, production issues), but the fall 2022 season saw an uptick, with a new record of 103 plus-size appearances, or 2.34 percent of total castings.Īnd that's why the fall 2023 season at NYFW proved to be immensely disappointing - a contrast stark enough for showgoers to sit up and take notice. Before the pandemic hit, the spring 2020 season had the most plus-size models on the runway, with 86 castings, according to The Fashion Spot's diversity report. All of this indicated that brands were, finally, prioritizing representation, buoyed by headline-making articles for doing so. The momentum seemed to continue to gain traction: every season thereafter saw more diverse body types, sizes, and faces on the runway, evidently ushering in an era that promised to be more inclusive.
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